What We'll Cover
- How ACC's FFB System Works
- The Parameters Explained (With ACC Default Values)
- Base Profiles for Every Major Wheel
- Per-Car Feel Differences
- Step-by-Step Tuning Process
- Common Mistakes to Avoid
Before you tune: ACC's in-game default FFB is genuinely well-tuned by Kunos. Use it as your baseline. The guide below explains why each parameter does what it does — so you can make informed decisions rather than randomly turning knobs.
1. How ACC's FFB System Works
ACC uses a physics-based force feedback model that calculates forces at the tire contact patch and sends them to your wheel motor. What you feel is the sum of all forces acting on the tires — not a simplified abstraction.
The key insight: ACC's FFB is additive. Forces from front and rear tires stack. A sliding car generates more FFB than a planted one. A car with stiff suspension generates more FFB through bumps and kerbs. Understanding this makes tuning intuitive.
ACC also has per-car FFB characteristics. A GT3 car with 700HP and sticky tires generates completely different feedback than a GT4 car with 450HP and harder tires. ACC models this. That's why the same FFB settings don't feel identical across all cars.
2. The Parameters Explained
Here's what each ACC FFB parameter actually controls:
3. Base Profiles for Every Major Wheel
These profiles are starting points, not final answers. Every wheel has individual variation, and your preferences matter. Use these as calibration anchors.
Moza R3 / R12
- Gain: 50-60% (strong, manageable)
- Damper: 0-15%
- Engine Volume: 80%
- ABS: 100%
- Reduce torque: 0-10%
Fanatec CSL DD / GT DD
- Gain: 45-55% (DD is strong)
- Damper: 0-10%
- Engine Volume: 80%
- ABS: 100%
- Reduce torque: 0-10%
Simagic Alpha Mini
- Gain: 45-55%
- Damper: 0-10%
- Engine Volume: 80%
- ABS: 100%
- Reduce torque: 0%
About Wheelbase Software vs ACC Settings
Your wheelbase's own software (Pinya App for Moza, FanaLab for Fanatec) has its own FFB filters, friction, and gain settings. The relationship between base software and ACC in-game settings matters:
- Set base software FFB to 100% — let ACC control everything
- Keep any "game volume" settings at default — these are usually fine
- Use base software for: wheel rotation angle, button mapping, and any hardware-level filters
- Use ACC in-game for: all FFB tuning parameters
4. Per-Car Feel Differences
ACC models each car's unique suspension geometry, weight distribution, tire characteristics, and aero profile. This means the same FFB settings feel different in different cars. Here's what to expect:
GT3
High Downforce, Sticky Tires
Maximum road feel through the steering. Every bump and kerb transmits clearly. The steering loads up dramatically under braking and in fast corners. ABS and traction control feedback is refined and informative.
GT4
Less Aero, Harder Tires
More mechanical feel, less aero dependency. The steering is more connected to suspension movement. Less dramatic wheel loads in high-speed corners but very consistent feel through the tire's operating range.
GT2 / Porsche Cup
Heavy, Rear-Heavy
Very heavy steering feel, especially at low speed. The rear weight bias means more careful throttle management. Wheel loads spike suddenly when rear tires break traction.
Lamborghini Super Trofeo
Light, Rear-Heavy, Big Power
The lightest car in ACC. Steering is responsive but can feel nervous at the limit. The massive rear grip makes it planted — but when it slides, it slides fast. Needs delicate throttle control.
Per-Car Fine Tuning
ACC's per-car settings override global FFB for individual cars. Use this to compensate:
- If a car feels too strong: reduce Torque Multiplier to 0.85-0.90
- If a car feels too weak: increase Torque Multiplier to 1.05-1.10
- If a car is harsh over kerbs: reduce Ground Border to 80%
- If you want more detail: increase Gain by 5% (watch for clipping)
5. Step-by-Step Tuning Process
The 5-Step Calibration
Load Default
Start with ACC's default FFB. Drive 3 clean laps on a track you know well.
Set Gain
Adjust global gain until maximum forces feel "strong but not jarring." You're looking for 85-90% of the force you'd feel in a real car on track.
Test Each Car
Jump into 3-4 different cars. Note which ones feel too strong or too weak. Adjust per-car torque multipliers.
Fine Tune Details
ABS volume, engine volume, ground border — adjust to preference. These are personal taste.
The "Paper Test"
Put a sheet of paper against your wheel while at rest. Spin the wheel — if the paper flies off at 50% speed, your FFB is too strong. The paper should be held firmly but not launched. This is obviously unscientific, but it gives you a gut feel for whether your settings are in a reasonable range.
6. Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Gain at 100% — Most DD wheels are overwhelming at 100% gain in ACC. 45-60% is the sweet spot. 100% is for 20+Nm bases only.
- Too much damper — High damper values make the wheel feel artificially heavy and kill road feel. If your wheel is "mushing" instead of communicating, reduce damper to 0%.
- Reduce torque at 50%+ — This setting scales down force when rear grip breaks. At high values, it makes slides feel like nothing happened. Use 0-20% maximum.
- Mismatched wheel rotation — If your in-game wheel rotation doesn't match your actual wheel, forces are scaled incorrectly. A 900° wheel at 540° in-game feels twice as strong as it should.
- Tuning on one lap — FFB takes time to learn. A new setting might feel wrong for 2 laps, then suddenly click on lap 3. Give each adjustment at least 5 laps before judging.
"The goal isn't maximum force. It's maximum information. The best FFB setting tells you everything about what the car is doing through your hands. More force doesn't always mean more information." — Driver Labs
Still unsure? Use the Moza R3/R12 or Fanatec CSL DD preset in Pinya App/FanaLab as a starting point. These manufacturer presets are calibrated by people who've tested thousands of hours with these bases in ACC specifically.